Tuesday, December 31, 2013

Pros and Cons of Spaying and Neutering Your Pets

A spay is, the removal of the ovaries and uterus in female animals. A neuter is the castration or removal of the testicals in male animals. These seem like major surgeries but in reality have a quicker recovery time and are less painful than if the same procedure was done on a human. Spaying and neutering your pet will enhance their life as long as yours. A dog that has been spayed or neutered should live 1 - 3 years longer than a dog that still has it's sexual organs. A spayed or Neutered cat lives an average of 3 - 5 years longer than one that hasn't. Here are some other great reasons to spay or neuter your pets. (SPAYING AND NEUTERING BENEFITS DO NOT APPLY TO JUST CATS AND DOGS)

Pros:
Females (Spay)
- Reduced risk of mammary cancer, uterine cancer, and ovarian cancer
- Longer lifespan
- No heat cycles (making them less desirable to males) 
- Reduced roaming desire
- No contribution to the already over populated species (also reducing the number of animals in shelters)
- Reduces aggressiveness and tendency to bite

Males (Neuter)
- Reduced risk of testicular cancer and prostate cancer
- Eliminates or reduces humping and desire to mate
- Eliminates or reduces spraying and marking
- Reduces aggressiveness and tendency to bite 
- Reduced roaming desire
- No contribution to the already over populated species (also reducing the number of animals in shelters)
- Longer lifespan
- Easier to train

Cons:
- None


The best time to spay a female is before her first heat. The best time to spay a male is widely debated but generally within the first year of his life. A spay or neuter can be preformed anytime after 8 weeks of age. 

Common misconceptions and FAQ

1. "My pet will become fat."
Too much food and lack of exercise makes a pet fat. If you monitor food intake and provide exercise, your pets will stay trim.
"He's purebred so he can't be fixed."
Purebreds and their offspring also end up homeless in shelters. Purebreds not spayed or neutered can also contribute to the problem of overpopulation.
"I will find good homes for all of the kittens (or puppies)."
If each of the great homes ready to welcome your pet's offspring would instead adopt from a shelter, they-and you-could potentially save the lives of deserving animals waiting for a new home.
"My pet is so special I want another pet just like her."
There is no guarantee that puppies and kittens will inherit their parents' best qualities. In fact, they may just as easily inherit the worst qualities.
2. Top 3 Reasons to Spay and Neuter
It helps to reduce companion animal overpopulation. Most countries have a surplus of companion animals and are forced to euthanize or disregard their great suffering. The surplus is in the millions in the United States. Cats are 45 times as prolific, and dogs 15 times as prolific, as humans. They do not need our help to expand their numbers; they need our help to reduce their numbers until there are good homes for them all.
Sterilization of your cat or dog will increase his/her chance of a longer and healthier life. Altering your canine friend will increase his life an average of 1 to 3 years, felines, 3 to 5 years. Altered animals have a very low to no risk of mammary gland tumors/cancer, prostate cancer, perianal tumors, pyometria, and uterine, ovarian and testicular cancers.
Sterilizing your cat/dog makes him/her a better pet, reducing his/her urge to roam and decreasing the risk of contracting diseases or getting hurt as they roam. Surveys indicate that as many as 85% of dogs hit by cars are unaltered. Intact male cats living outside have been shown to live on average less than two years. Feline Immunodeficiency Syndrome is spread by bites and intact cats fight a great deal more than altered cats.
Additional Benefits:
Your community will also benefit. Unwanted animals are becoming a very real concern in many places. Stray animals can easily become a public nuisance, soiling parks and streets, ruining shrubbery, frightening children and elderly people, creating noise and other disturbances, causing automobile accidents, and sometimes even killing livestock or other pets. 
- The American Veterinary Medical Association
The capture, impoundment and eventual destruction of unwanted animals costs taxpayers and private humanitarian agencies over a billion dollars each year. As a potential source of rabies and other less serious diseases, they can be a public health hazard. 
- The American Veterinary Medical Association

3.When can I have this procedure done?
Both procedures can safely be performed at as early as 8 weeks of age. American Humane Association is a strong proponent of juvenile or pediatric spay/neuter since it is both healthy for pets and effectively reduces pet overpopulation.

Why should I have my pet neutered?

Animal shelters, both public and private, are faced with an incredible burden: What to do with the overpopulation of dogs and cats that they cannot find homes for? Approximately 3.7 million animals are euthanized at shelters each year, due to the sheer fact that there are not enough willing adopters. Having your pet spayed or neutered ensures that you will not be adding to this tremendous burden.

What are some of the health and behavioral benefits?

Through neutering, you can help your dog or cat live a happier, healthier, longer life. Spaying eliminates the constant crying and nervous pacing of a female cat in heat. Spaying a female dog also eliminates the messiness associated with the heat cycle

Neutering of male dogs and cats can prevent certain undesirable sexual behaviors, such as urine marking, humping, male aggression and the urge to roam. If you have more than one pet in your household, all the pets will generally get along better if they are neutered.

A long-term benefit of spaying and neutering is improved health for both cats and dogs. Spaying females prior to their first heat cycle nearly eliminates the risk of breast cancer and totally prevents uterine infections and uterine cancer. Neutering males prevents testicular cancer and enlargement of the prostate gland, and greatly reduces their risk for perianal tumors.

Neutering just costs too much!

The cost of caring for a pet, including providing veterinary care, should be considered before acquiring an animal. Many animal shelters offer low-cost spay/neuter services, and there are also many low-cost spay/neuter clinics across the country. To find low-cost options in your area, call your local animal shelter. The reality is that the cost associated with providing adequate care for just one litter of puppies or kittens is often more than the cost of spaying or neutering. The cost of feeding, worming and first vaccinations for a litter can be upwards of $200 to $300. You must also consider that there could be complications with the birth that require hospitalization or surgery. You will also be faced with finding good homes for the offspring yourself or placing more animals into your local shelter. The cost of the well-being of not just your companion animal, but of future generations, should be considered.

Can't I allow my purebred dog to have just one litter?

Mixed breed or purebred -- there just aren’t enough homes. Purebred animals also often end up in shelters. In fact, 25 percent of shelter dogs are purebreds. Responsible purebred breeders have homes for their potential litters before they breed.

I don't even own a pet! Why is this my problem?

All of us are affected by animal overpopulation. Millions of tax dollars are spent annually to shelter and care for stray, abandoned and unwanted pets. Much of that money is spent to euthanize these animals when homes cannot be found. Human health is threatened by the danger of transmittable diseases (including rabies), animal bites and attacks. Property may be damaged and livestock killed when pets roam in search of food. Animal waste is proving to be a serious environment hazard, fouling yards and parks. It is only when all of us assume the responsibility for pet overpopulation that we will see any decrease in the problem.

Isn't it wrong to deprive an animal of the natural right to reproduce?

No, it’s wrong to allow these animals to reproduce millions of unwanted offspring that are eventually killed because there aren’t enough responsible homes.

If I find homes for my pet's litters, then I won't contribute to the problem, right?

Wrong. Only a finite number of people want pets. So every home you find for your pet’s offspring takes away a home from a loving animal already at a shelter.

Shouldn't every female pet have at least one litter before being spayed?

No. In fact, your pet will be healthier if she never sexually matures.

Shouldn't children experience the miracle of birth?

No. A more important lesson to teach your children would be responsible pet ownership and concern for life by explaining why their pet should not have babies.

Doesn't neutering alter an animal's personality?

No. Personality changes that may result from neutering are for the better. Not being distracted by the instinctual need to find a mate helps your pet stop roaming and decreases aggressive tendencies.

Won't animal shelters take care of the surplus animals?

No. Shelters do their best to place animals in loving homes, but the number of homeless animals far exceeds the number of willing adopters. This leaves many loving and healthy animals in our community that must be euthanized as the only humane solution to this tragic dilemma. Only spaying and neutering can end the overpopulation problem.




Credit:


Tuesday, October 1, 2013

Conure Care

Conure Facts
Conures are a small type of parrot. They aren’t good at mimicking but can learn to say simple words.
There are 26 different types of Conures you can own but the Green Cheek Conure and Sun Conures are the most common.  Conures are available in a variety of colors and patterns like the Jenday Conure, Nanday Conure, and Cherry Headed Conure.
The average Conure life span is 15-35 years.
Conures reach full length at 8 weeks but should continue to fill out until 6 months of age. They will reach 10-12 inches and length and should weigh between 100 and 130 grams.
A Conure won’t get all of it’s colors until 18 months to 2 years of age.
Conures are diurnal meaning they’re awake during the day.
Feeding
Pelleted foods are important for all birds. Pelleted food should make up 70% of a Conures diet with fruits, vegetables, and grains making up the other 30%.
Cooked Grains:  Amaranth, brown rice, buckwheat, hulless barley, kamut, millet, quinoa, spelt, tuff, whole oats, and wild rice.
Cooked Legumes: Adzuki, lentils, mung, and sprouting peas
Fruit: Any type of berries, apples, apricot, banana, cherries, figs, grapefruit, kiwi, lemons, limes, mango, melons, nectarines, oranges, papaya, pears, pineapple, and pomegranates
Vegetables: Acorn, beet root, bokchoy, broccoli, brussel sprouts, butternut squash, cabbage, cactus leaf, carrot tops, carrots, cauliflower, celery, chayote squash, Chinese cabbage, collard greens, corn, cucumber, dandelion greens, endive, escarole, green beans, green peppers,  jicama, kale, kohlrabi, mustard greens, okra, peas, pumpkin, radish,  red peppers, romaine, spaghetti squash, tomatoes, turnip greens, zucchini
Seeds: Almonds, canary grass seed, nyger, oat groats, pine nuts, pistachios, pumpkin seeds, red millet, rolled barley, safflower seed, shelled peanuts, sunflower seeds, white millet, and whole wheat
Other foods: Cooked eggs, corn bread, peanut butter (creamy), sprouted seeds, and whole wheat pasta
Dangerous foods: Alcohol, avocados, caffeine, chocolate, dairy products (besides yogurt), fruit pits, fruit seeds, fruit rinds, garlic, mayonnaise products, onions, peanuts, raw meats, rhubarb, salty/sugary foods, uncooked beans, and uncooked rice
Housing
Provide your conure with the largest possible cage.
Minimum cage size is 20Wx20Hx20L with bars 3/8” apart.
Conures need a variety of perches. It’s best to provide your bird with different size perches. Different size perches help stretch birds’ feet and prevent arthritis.
Provide your conure with a nesting box to sleep in.
Conures need as many toys as possible! Conures with a variety of toys are healthier and smarter than those without them. Toys should not have lead, zinc, or galvanized parts because they can cause medical problems in canaries.
Cages need to be placed away from drafts, heater vents, and open windows.
Cover the cage at night to prevent drafts, keep the birds warm, and keep them on a timed schedule.
Cages should never be placed in a kitchen as Teflon, smoke, and strong odors can be deadly to them.
Cages, perches, and toys should be disinfected once a month. Food and water bowls should be cleaned daily or as needed.
Behavior & Grooming
Conures are social animals and need to be handled for several hours every day. Conures aren’t good at mimicking but can learn simple phrases or sounds.
Conures can be housed with other conures of the same sex but they need time to adjust to each other.  Not all birds are guaranteed to like each other.
Conures can have their wings clipped but it is up to you. Vets and some pets stores will clip wings for you but it is extremely easy to do yourself if you know how to do it right.
Bathe your conure at least once a week in lukewarm water or by using a spray bottle.

Toenails need to kept short or canaries can injure their feet and legs.  Exotic vets will trim nails or you can do it by yourself.  Research how to trim nails before doing it. Be careful not to hit the quick as small animals can easily bleed to death. Bleeding can by stopped with styptic powder. If that doesn’t stop the bleeding you can light a match, blow it out, and immediately press the match onto the toenail to cauterize the bleeding.

Canary Care

Canary Facts
Canaries make wonderful companions if cared for properly. Male canaries over 6 months should sing for most of the day. Female canaries chirp but will never sing, no matter the age.
There are 18 different types of canaries you can own but the yellow canary is the most common.  Canaries are available in white, red, orange, and even with a variety of colors and patterns including the Lizard Canary, and German Roller Canary
The average canary life span is 10 – 15 years.
Canaries are small birds. They should be between 3 – 4 inches from head to tail. They will reach full size at 12 months.
Canaries are diurnal meaning they’re awake during the day.
Feeding
Canaries are omnivores meaning they eat both plants and meat.   Pelleted foods are important for canaries. Pelleted food should make up 70% of a canaries diet with fruits, vegetables, and small amounts of protein making up the other 30%.
Safe Fruits: Apples, apricots, bananas, blueberries, cantaloupe, coconut, fig, grapes, grapefruit, kiwi, melons, mango, nectarines, oranges, papaya, peaches, pears, pineapples, plums, pomegranates, raspberries, and strawberries
Careful feeding canaries citrus fruits as it can give them TOO much iron causing “iron overload disease”
Safe Vegetables: Asparagus, beets, broccoli, brussel sprouts, cabbage, cantaloupe, carrot, chic peas, chicory, corn, cucumber, dandelion, leaves, kale, kidney beans, lentils,  lima beans, mustard seed, navy beans,  parsnip, peas, peppers, potatoes, pumpkin, romaine lettuce, soy beans, spinach, squash, sweet potatoes, tomatoes, turnip tops, watercress, and zucchini
Protein: Boiled eggs, egg shell, and alfalfa sprouts
Do not leave eggs in the cage for over 4 hours, Only offer enough food for your canary to eat in one sitting.
Cuttlebone, pellets, and fresh water should be available at all times.
Millet can be offered as a treat.
Grit should be added to the pellets to help canaries digest food and provide them with more vitamins.
Housing
Provide your canary with the largest possible cage.
Minimum cage size is 18Wx18Hx18L with bars 3/8” apart.
Canaries need long cages instead of tall cages since they fly side to side instead of up and down, flight cages are strongly recommended for canaries.
Canaries need a variety of perches. It’s best to provide your bird with different size perches. Different size perches help stretch birds’ feet and prevent arthritis.
Provide one nest per bird. Canaries prefer open nests.
Canaries like a variety of toys as long as they don’t obstruct flight. Toys should not have lead, zinc, or galvanized parts because they can cause medical problems in canaries.
Cages need to be placed away from drafts, heater vents, and open windows.
Cover the cage at night to prevent drafts, keep the birds warm, and keep them on a timed schedule.
Cages should never be placed in a kitchen as Teflon, smoke, and strong odors can be deadly to them.
Cages, perches, and toys should be disinfected once a month. Food and water bowls should be cleaned daily or as needed.
Behavior & Grooming
Canaries like attention but don’t typically enjoy being handled. Talking and whistling to your canary provides them with needed attention and socialization.
Males should not be housed together as they might fight and injure or kill each other.
Male canaries with mirrors in cages might not sing.
NEVER clip a canary’s wings. Canaries use their wings to help them move around, not just for flying.
Bathe your canary at least once a week in lukewarm water or by using a spray bottle.

Toenails need to kept short or canaries can injure their feet and legs.  Exotic vets will trim nails or you can do it by yourself.  Research how to trim nails before doing it. Be careful not to hit the quick as small animals can easily bleed to death. Bleeding can by stopped with styptic powder. If that doesn’t stop the bleeding you can light a match, blow it out, and immediately press the match onto the toenail to cauterize the bleeding.

Wednesday, August 14, 2013

Bedding Review

Item: KAYTEE® Clean & Cozy COLORS Small Pet Bedding
Rate: ★★☆☆☆
Used for: Guinea Pig and Chinchilla
Would not buy again
http://www.petsmart.com/product/index.jsp?productId=12339026&f=PAD%2FpsNotAvailInUS%2FNo 

I've been trying different types of bedding the last couple of months and this is one of my least favorites. 
The bedding is nice and soft, looks soft, and my pets enjoy sleeping on it. Cleaning the cage after using this bedding however is AWFUL. 
The bedding sticks to the bottom of the cage and has to be scraped of. It doesn't soak up very much pee and it quickly 
Changes from purple to yellow. When the bedding is dumped it also leaves behind a high amount of dust It gets a little smelly by the time I need to clean the cage (once a week) but the smell isn't too bad
It is disgusting to clean up however and needs to be changed sooner than every week


Item:Vitakraft® Pellet Litter
Rate:★★★★★
Used for: Chinchilla
Would buy again
http://www.petsmart.com/product/index.jsp?productId=12341297&f=PAD%2FpsNotAvailInUS%2FNo

This is one of my favorite types of bedding. It's a pretty cheap price but I only get 2 cage fills out of it. It's easy to clean up, recycled material
It smells fresh ALL THE TIME and it doesn't stick to the floor like the Clean & Cozy. This bedding is easy to clean out  andonly leaves behind a small amount of dust. 


Item:CareFRESH® Natural™ Premium Soft Bedding
Used for: Mice, Guinea Pig, and Chinchilla
Guinea Pig Rate:☆☆☆
Mice Rate:★★★☆☆
Chinchilla Rate: ★★★★☆
Would use for certain animals
http://www.petsmart.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2753657&f=PAD%2FpsNotAvailInUS%2FNo

I had 2 pet mice a few years back and this was the only bedding I used for them. It was a perfect bedding for them 
To dig in (Levi loved to dig in it!) and they enjoyed sleeping on it. They would actually carry the bedding into their toys 
and sleep on it. This bedding was easy to dump out, didn't need to be scraped. It did leave behind dust but not too much
The bedding got a little stinky by the end of the week but Mice are always stinky anyway. 

I will never use this bedding again for my Guinea Pig. Only changing this bedding once a week is out of the question. 
It needs to be changed every TWO DAYS! Other wise it smells like you've become a serial killer.  Not only does it smell
horrible but it is horrendous to change. I dump the dirty bedding into a garbage bag but there is no dumping here. The pee 
and poo turns this bedding into one solidified mass that has to broken into chunks and scraped out. This bedding also made
my cage rot in certain places. My guinea pig needed a bath after using this bedding because she stunk as well. 

This is great bedding for a chinchilla. SMELL WISE you could probably go 2 weeks before needing to change it. The bedding can be dumped out
(Chinchillas go to the bathroom less than a guinea pig). I didn't experience any rotting and the bedding didn't need to be scraped out
My chinchilla has an igloo on the floor of his cage and another house on one of his shelves. When I use this bedding he loves to sleep in the igloo. 


Item:Kaytee KayKob Bedding
Rate:★★★★☆
Used for: Doves, Guinea Pig, Chinchilla
Would use again
http://www.petsmart.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2753575&f=PAD%2FpsNotAvailInUS%2FNo

I buy this bedding in a 17 L bag for $21. It's available in stores but I didn't see it online. I love how much bedding you get
when buying this. I can usually fill the Guinea Pig's cage twice, the Chinchilla's cage twice and the doves cage once. 
I never smelled anything while using this bedding and it also leaves behind ZERO dust. My chinchilla doesn't love to dig in this stuff
He hollows out his igloo and builds himself a "nest" whenever I use this. The only complaint I have is the peed on bedding does stick
to the bottom of the cage but it easily comes off. However the parts of the cage where the bedding stuck permanently changed color. 
My chinchilla's cage is black, now with white spots and the same happened to my guinea's purple cage. I don't experience any 
problem with this bedding for my doves. 


Item:Kaytee Soft-Sorbent Lavender Scented Bedding
Rate:★★★★★
Used for: Guinea Pig and Chinchilla
Would definitely use again
http://www.petsmart.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2753648&f=PAD%2FpsNotAvailInUS%2FNo

This is my favorite bedding. I never use wood bedding because I don't want my animals getting mites. This one is a mixture of 
wood and other bedding. Flowers are also in the bedding to keep it smelling good and it works. My cages need to be cleaned tomorrow and so far I don't smell a thing. 
The bedding still looks brand new in both cages. The bedding doesn't seem to be ticking and I don't notice any dust. 
I love this bedding and so do my pets. They enjoy sleeping on it. I'll post more of a review after I clean my cages. 
This bedding also came with enough to fill both of my cages twice. I bought this bedding only a week ago. This is my first time using it. 

Item Reviews

Over the next little while I'm going to be reviewing items that I have used for my pets. These will mostly be items for small animals but a few reptile or bird items might pop up. I also buy everything I use from Petsmart and as far as I know all of the items I'll be reviewing are still being sold there. Ill be giving the item a rating out of 5 stars
★☆☆☆☆ (1)
★★☆☆☆ (2)
★★★☆ (3)
★★★★☆ (4)
★★★★★ (5)

Sunday, January 27, 2013

Improper Sugar Glider Care

A few weeks ago a friend of mine bought 2 Sugar Gliders, a week later her apartment told her to get rid of them so I took them, making a total of 4 Gliders. I am the 4th owner of these guys and it's obvious these guys were never properly cared for or bonded to anyone. They were living in a really small cage, their bed was a stuffed animal with it's head ripped off, they had an EXTREMELY unsafe wheel and only 1 toy. They were only being fed pellets as well instead of fruit and veggies every night like they need. Whoever bought the gliders and/or the supplies had NO idea what they were doing. There was no bonding bag for them and I seriously doubt they were ever held. My friend learned everything about glider care from me, AFTER she bought them. Sol is a boy, Skye is a girl and Sol hasn't been fixed, Luckily Skye hasn't gotten pregnant. The care of these poor guys is what prompted me to right this.

Seriously think about Glider care before buying at LEAST 2. They are easy animals to take care of but if  you don't know how to do it, they can be difficult animals. 

Refer to these links for supplies information
http://wildathearthmm.blogspot.com/2012/12/why-you-must-have-more-than-one-sugar.html
http://wildathearthmm.blogspot.com/2012/12/average-cost-of-sugar-gliders.html
http://wildathearthmm.blogspot.com/2012/12/safe-foods-for-sugar-gliders.html

Bonding with Sugar gliders are the hardest part. During the first few days your glider(s) will be very crabby, anytime you look at them or scare them (which is easy) they will crab at you. (Crabbing is the name of the noise they make). If you aren't careful, they will bite, and it WILL hurt, they can make you bleed some times.  Bonding bags are the easiest way to bond with these animals, you can find them online for $10 - $15 and they are worth it. When you get up for the day, put your glider in the bonding bag and wear the bag around your neck for the entire day. I've taken my gliders in the bag to every store, movies, restaurants, you name it, people don't even know that they're there. When you go to bed put the glider back in it's cage. Once the gliders get used to your smell they will let you pet them and hold them. When you sleep wear the same shirt for a couple nights or sleep with a rag and then put the cloth that smells like you over their cage during the night so they can get used to your smell even faster. Most gliders stop crabbing within a few days and they are extremely lovey, mine sleep down my shirt almost everyday. They know when you're near and are always excited to see you. They are worth the wait, they are an animal that will NEVER leave you.

Tuesday, January 8, 2013

Quick Canary Care



Canaries fly back and forth instead of up and down. They need a cage with a minimum size of 18”Wx18”Hx18”L

Canaries enjoy toys and perches, nests are also a good Idea as long as they don’t obstruct flight.
When letting your bird out make sure all windows in the area are closed and covered. Birds see all windows as open and can easily injure or kill themselves if they crash into a closed window
Canaries are diurnal, meaning they’re out during the day and need more sleep at night than you do. If you can’t keep your bird in a completely dark room at night, make sure the cage is covered.
Canaries live between 8 and 10 years are social animals and enjoy being with other birds, however they can be kept singly.

“Natural molting time for your canary is normally between July and September, during this time they will sing very little.  During the molt, your bird may not feel well and will be more susceptible to drafts and temperature changes than normal.  You should ensure that during this time you keep him out of drafts and keep the temperature at a constant level.  Feeding during the molt should be generous with high protein items; high protein is essential for the formation of new feathers.  Softfood/Eggfood should be provided during this time approximately every other day, dry seed should also be provided as well as greens, vegetables and conditioning food.  Baths should be offered as often as possible during the molt as it assists in loosening the old feathers and aids in assisting the sheen and condition of the birds’ new plumage.  I have found that feeding cucumbers during the molt also assists the birds’ health and vitality during and after the molt.  You should also help your birds through the molt by feeding a molting supplement.”

Never clip a canary or finches’ wings, even partially. Their wings are used to help them get around, not just for flying. Toe nails need to be kept short or they can injure or lose toes, feet, and legs. When trimming nails be careful not to hit vein, because birds are so small they can bleed to death very quickly. To stop bleeding, dip the toe in styptic powder, baking powder, flour, or corn starch. To cauterize a wound light a match, blow it out, and gently put it on the wound.

Canaries can eat more than just commercial bird seed, a variety in food is always a good thing
Fruits
Apples 
Apricots
Bananas
Blueberries                                        
Cantaloupe
Coconut
Fig
Grapes
Grapefruit
Kiwi
Melons
Mango 
Nectarines
Orange
Papaya
Peaches
Pears
Pineapples
Plums
Pomegranates
Raspberries
Strawberries

Vegetables
Asparagus
Beets
Broccoli
Brussel Sprouts
Cabbage
Cantaloupe
Carrot
Chic Pea
Chicory
Corn
Cucumber
Dandelion Leaves
Kale
Kidney Beans
Lentils
Lima
Mustard
Navy Beans
Parsnip
Peas
Peppers
Potato
Pumpkin
Romaine Lettuce
Soy Beans
Spinach
Squash
Sweet Potatoes
Tomato
Turnip Tops
WaterCress
Zucchini

Me,